Tuesday, 1 July 2008

Two tales of one temple

Aerial view of Preah Vihear overlooking Cambodia plain.The temple ruiins are claimed by both Thailand and Cambodia. (Photo/Cambodian government)

UPI Asia Online

By Frank G. Anderson
Column: Thai Traditions

Nakhonratchasima, Thailand — The ancient kingdoms of Cambodia and Thailand are squaring off over some ancient Khmer ruins that have only barely withstood the test of time. Like a landlocked version of the dispute over the Persian Gulf versus the Arabian Gulf, both countries lay claim to Phra Viharn, as the Thais call it, or Preah Vihear in Cambodian.

The ruins were not included in the new Thai government’s list of top things to concern itself with when it took office in February. Of course, neither was amending the 2007 Constitution, but that suddenly became a priority when it became clear that the new coalition government might suffer dissolution if Thaksin’s nominee party, the People’s Power Party, were to be disbanded under a clause inserted in the new Constitution.

It also looked as if the PPP’s main benefactor, former Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra, stood to become deeply involved in irrevocable criminal cases unless the charter was amended.

Now that public pressure and other anti-charter change groups have won and the government has backed down from constitutional amendment – if only for the time being until the heat cools – the government is fighting other serious allegations, including surrendering Thai territory to Cambodia in an alleged possible quid pro quo of Thai land for “Thaksin commercial licenses.”

With the lack of transparency traditional in all Thai commercial and government matters, it will be a miracle if anyone actually uncovers a single shred of evidence against either Thaksin or those who now make up the PPP ruling coalition. Yet various nongovernmental organizations in Thailand – joined at arm’s length by the opposition Democrats and more closely aligned with the People’s Alliance for Democracy – are continuing to badger the government to force open clenched fists and pry open cans of worms.

Khao Phra Viharn is actually the mountain that Phra Viharn was built on roughly 1,000 years ago. Phra Viharn itself, or Prasart (which translates alternatively as temple, castle, house of the gods, pavilion, mansion or abode of the gods) Phra Viharn, was built on the edge of an imposing 625-meter-high cliff overlooking mist-stained Khmer territory.

Some 140 kilometers northwest of Angkor Wat, the current prasart is in ruins, with most of its walls deeply pitted and sections decayed and collapsed. Heavy blocks of dense sandstone lie left and right, some lean against still-standing pillars. And yet, the grandeur of this powerful and striking relic from the past is well worth braving the oppressive heat, humidity and tough climbing to witness and photograph for personal posterity.

The ancient architects who designed and built this monument to past glory in the 10th, 11th and 12th centuries were master craftsmen. Today, engineers and hydrologists have yet to understand the detailed water collection and effluent system that is part of the temple.

Thai protesters are now assaulting the current Thai government’s less-than-transparent dealings with UNESCO and Cambodia in trying to get the temple listed as a World Heritage Site.

What may be irking the protesters is that Cambodia has always had a seeming jump on Thailand in terms of its solicitations to the United Nations. At the moment, for example, the best online resource for information on what has transpired to date is the Temple of Preah Vihear package prepared and printed by Cambodia’s Council of Ministers in June. The 45-page presentation contains awesome photographs and a clear litany of documents submitted.

Thais have traditionally stuck their heads in the sand until push comes to shove, and this time it may cost them square kilometers in land lost to Cambodia, as well as the reiteration that Prasarn Preah Vihear belongs to Cambodia and will always belong to Cambodia.

On June 24, opposition forces submitted a request to the Thai Administrative Court asking for an injunction to prevent the Thai government from entering into what they believe to be an illegal and illegitimate agreement that will not only offer no objection from Thailand that the Prasart be declared and maintained by Cambodia as a World Heritage Site, but also lead to loss of Thai land.

This writer has not been to Preah Viharn for decades, but has visited similar ruins in Phimai and the Phanom Rung ruins in northeast Thailand. In each case, while authorities have attempted to maintain them, results leave a great deal to be desired. In Buriram province, for example, large component rocks of the Phanom Rung temple are hastily piled on top of one another in a poor attempt to simulate original construction. It doesn’t work.

Given Cambodia’s past maintenance record, the question is, will Prasart Preah Vihear be able to withstand Cambodian attempts to maintain and preserve these ruins?

The Catch 22 situation at the temple is that access is only really feasible from Thai territory, but the World Court says it is on Cambodian land. If this were a problem between dear friends, then the status of Preah Viharn might not be so difficult to resolve. But while Thailand has called Cambodia a “friendly neighboring country,” the truth is that Cambodia and Thailand never really liked one another and are not about to start. Thailand’s current foreign minister even hinted that military force was always an option in getting back “what belongs to Thailand.”

Because of Thai protests and rumor-mongering, Cambodia closed Prasart Preah Viharn to the public last week. This action has taken money out of the pockets of surrounding merchants who had set up tents and tables to sell food and wares to visitors to the temple. More importantly, it has knocked out a source of income for the Cambodian government and tour agencies.

Just how long the temple remains closed will depend on how quickly Cambodia perceives that it is once again getting its way and that the status of World Heritage Site will be awarded to this ancient architectural masterpiece.

Links to Preah Viharn photos and International Court of Justice findings and rulings can be found, among other places, at www.thekokratpost.com.

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